| Jack
Tackle |
I have lived in Montana for most of my life, most of it right
here in Bozeman.
I grew up in the mountains fishing and hunting with my father
who was a research scientist for the Forest Service. It wasn't
until the middle of university, just before my 20th birthday,
that I discovered technical climbing.
I quickly tried to make up for lost time and over the first
few years, I developed a focus on alpine climbing, expeditions
and doing first ascents.
For the past thirty years I have pursued all types of climbing,
in many different ranges of the world-always maintaining a eye
on alpine style climbing of new routes. I have done many trips
to the Himalaya, South America, and Alaska. I am probably best
known for my climbing in Alaska. I have done 29 separate trips
combining both attempts and successes since 1976 and completed
11 major first ascents. |
| |
| Climbing Highlights |
| 1975 |
My first expedition - Mt. Waddington BC Coast
Range. We attempted a new route on the South Face. Later that
year I began waterfall ice climbing. |
| 1976 |
The first expeditions to Alaska. I spent the summer
in SE Alaska w/ Fred Beckey and others doing first ascents in
the Juneau Icefields and completing the first ascent of Mt.
Emmerich in the Chilkat Range. |
| 1977 |
Mt. Waddington BC Coast Range - Climbed a new
variation on the South Face. We also did 3 other new routes
on Mt. Sockeye, Mt. Agur, and Mt. Monday. I started doing new
routes and first winter ascents in the Beartooths mountains
of Montana and the Tetons in Wyoming. |
| 1978 |
Mt. Kennedy- St. Elias Range - We attempted the
North Ridge alpine style and completed a new route on the east
spur of Kennedy. I started guiding in Montana and I continued
to do first winter ascents in the Tetons and Beartooths. |
| 1979 |
This was my first attempt on the "Isis Face" of
Denali (McKinley). Ken Currens, my partner, fell 250 ft. and
broke his femur on our second day of climbing. An epic rescue
ensued with the help of Mugs Stump that demonstrated self reliance
on our part. I began giving ice seminars and more rock climbing
instruction and I continued to focus on new routes in the Beartooths. |
| 1980 |
2nd attempt of the "Isis Face" on Denali. Bad
weather and conditions forced our retreat. We also climbed to
16,000ft. on the South Buttress of Denali. |
| 1981 |
Ist expedition to Asia. Jim Donini, Kim Schmitz,
and I attempted alpine style the 6,000 ft. north face of Mt.
Siguniang( 21,600ft.) in central Sichuan province. We reached
19,000 ft. before storms forced our retreat. We were the second
American expedition to China after it re-opened in 1980. |
| 1982 |
Dave Stutzman and I completed the first ascent
of the " Isis Face" of Denali. This 8,000 ft. Face was climbed
alpine style over a period of 8 days and included 76 belayed
pitches. It is still unrepeated. Alaskan Grade 6.- In the summer
I started guiding for the Exum Mountain Guides in Grand Teton
National Park, Wyoming. Exum is the oldest and most prestigious
guide service in the U.S. |
| 1983 |
Expedition to Mt. Everest, West Ridge Direct from
Tibet. We did a new route on the west shoulder to 24,000ft.
on the north side, then attempted to finish the upper West ridge
direct. We reached 26,500 on the direct before switching to
the North Face/Horbein, where I reached the expedition high
point of 27,500 ft solo and without oxygen. Our team used no
Sherpas or bottled O2. Our team included John Roskelley, Galen
Rowell, Kim Momb, Michael Graber,and expedition leader Bob Craig. |
| 1984 |
Karakoram Pakistan- Galen Rowell, myself, and
two others did an alpine style first ascent of Lukpilla Brakk.
(18,000ft.) The 32 pitch rock climb of this free standing tower
near The Ogre was climbed all free except for 10 feet over a
2 ½ day period. National Geographic was a co-sponsor
of the expedition. Later that winter, Alex Lowe and I did the
2nd winter ascent of the North Ridge of the Grand Teton. |
| 1985 |
Alaska Range- Jim Donini and I did the first ascent
of the " Diamond Arete" on Mt. Hunter. This alpine style route
was done over a 9 day push that included 36 pitches and a traverse
of the mountain in bad weather. I also guided the South Buttress
of Denali that season. Alex Lowe and I completed 4 major winter
routes in the Tetons during this year. The first complete and
alpine style winter ascent of the North Face of the Grand Teton-
FWA of South Buttress Right, Mt Moran-FWA of Staircase Arete,
Mt. Moran- and first ascent of Laughing Lion Falls- Mt. Moran. |
| 1986 |
Peru - New route with Jim Donini in the Corderilla
Hyuahaush. South Face of Trapecio. We also attempted a new route
on the East Face of Jirishanca. Later that year, Alex Lowe and
I completed the FWA of South Buttress Direct on Mt. Moran in
the Tetons. |
| 1987 |
Alaska Range - Jim Donini and I attempted a new
route on the East Face of Kichatna Spire. We completed a 10
pitch new route on Avalanche Spire in the Kichatnas using the
only good day of weather the entire trip. |
| 1988 |
Alaska Range - Mt. Foraker- Jim Donini and I attempted
the 2nd ascent of the Infinite Spur. Storms forced our retreat. |
| 1989 |
Alaska Range (Ruth Gorge) - Jim Donini and I completed
all but the last 600 ft.of a new route on the ENE ridge of Mt.
Wake. We ripped out a slab avalanche at our feet just below
the summit and barely completed an epic descent down the unknown
north face in a storm. On the same trip we also attempted 3
times a new route on the East Face of Mt. Barille, but continuous
bad weather forced us off the route. 1990- First winter ascents
in the Beartooth Mountains of Montana and the Tetons of Wyoming. |
| 1991 |
Alaska Range - Jim Donini and I completed two
major routes this season. We first climbed the "Cobra Pillar"
on the East Face of Mt. Barille in the Ruth Gorge. The route
was 22 pitches of rock climbing and 7 pitches of snow and ice.
We climbed alpine style over a 2 ½ day push. Grade 6,
5.11a A2. Then we flew over to Mt. Foraker and did a new route
on the SE side we called the "Viper Ridge". This alpine
route ascends a prominent rib up to 13,000 ft. on the SE Ridge.
Both the pillar on Barille and the ridge on Foraker were done
in one 17 day trip. |
| 1992 |
Alaska Range (Denali) - I soloed the West Rib
in 7 hours from 14,000ft. I also did a new route on the face
of the Direct West Buttress above Windy Corner to 16,000 ft.
in 12 hours round trip from the 14,000 ft. camp. |
| 1993 |
Alaska Range (Ruth Gorge) - My 1st attempt on
the North Face of Mt. Johnson, the "Elevator Shaft".
Karakoram- Pakistan. Jim Donini and I attempted the unclimbed
peak Uzum Brakk in the Biafo Glacier area. This 6350 m peak
is also know as "Conways Ogre". Jim and I reached
6000 m., 10 pitches of climbing below the summit and had to
retreat because of bad weather. This route has 2000 m. of climbing
which we did alpine style. |
| 1994 |
Alaska Range (Ruth Gorge) - My 2nd attempt on
the "Elevator Shaft" of Mt. Johnson. I guided the
West Buttress of Denali that same season. I also completed the
FWA of Serendipity Arete on Mt. Owen in the Tetons - solo. |
| 1995 |
Alaska Range (Ruth Gorge) - Doug Chabot and I
completed the first ascent of the "Elevator Shaft"
on Mt. Johnson. Alaskan Grade 6 WI5 5.7 A2+. Canadian Rockies-
Numerous waterfall ice climbs including "Sea of Vapors"
and "Mixed Master". I also attempted a new route on
the North Face of Mt. Kennedy in the Yukon/ St. Elias mountains
with Jack Roberts. Patagonia - Argentina. I attempted to guide
the Franco-Argentine route on Fitzroy. |
| 1996 |
St. Elias Range - Alaska/Yukon - Jack Roberts
and I climbed a new route called "Arctic Discipline"
on the North Face of Mt. Kennedy. This 11 day effort was done
in both capsule and alpine style combined. Alaskan Grade 6 WI
5+ M5. Later that same season in the Cordillera Blanca of Peru,
I climbed Alpamayo and Artensonraju by existing routes with
Jeannie Wall .The Fowler route on the South Face of Taulliraju
with Barry Blanchard was attempted unsuccessfully. |
| 1997 |
Alaska Range - Mt. Hunter. Doug Chabot and I climbed
a new variation on the SW Face of the SW Ridge that we named
"The Sound of Freedom". We climbed the 5,000 ft. face
in one 14 hour push. |
| 1998 |
Patagonia - Argentina - Fitzroy. Joe Josephson
and I attempted a new variation on the West Face of Fitzroy,
reaching a high point of 5,000 ft up the 7,000ft, face before
being forced down by bad weather. We later completed the Super
Caneleta route in 72 hour push base camp to base camp. In May,
Joe Josephson, Jeannie Wall, and I climbed the East Ridge of
Mount Logan in the St. Elias Range. |
| 1999 |
Expeditions planned to Patagonia and Alaska and
Pakistan. Guest speaker at the Banff Film Festival. Guest speaker
and Jury member at the Trento Film Festival in Trento, Italy.
Awarded the "Genziana Giovane" award for excellence
in alpine climbing by the Italian Alpine Club and the Trento
Film Festival. |
| 2000 |
Expedition to Alaska and a National Geographic
sponsored expedition to the Ogre in Pakistan. Invited guest
speaker at the Banff Festival Summit 2000.An essay about the
future of climbing appears in " Voices from the Summit",
published by National Geographic books |
| 2001 |
Lectured at National Geographic in Washington
DC on alpine style climbing in Alaska, March 27th.Guided 30
days in the Tetons after having Gullian-Barre' Syndrome in January,
with 50 days of hospitialization, including the Grand Traverse
of the Teton Range. Lectured at National Geographic on October
16th-17th with Brad and Barbara Washburn. |
| 2002 |
Mt Augusta attempt in the St. Elias Range |
| 2003 |
Recepient of the Sowles Award from the American
Alpine Club |
| |
| Guiding
experience |
 |
I started guiding in
Montana in 1978 out of the retail store I was a partner in at
the time. I focused on putting together ice seminars and rock
classes. Since then I have done mainly private guiding. The
following are some of the highlights of my guiding. |
|
Exum Mountain Guides- Grand Teton
National Park, Wyo. 1982-2003 |
|
Senior Guide Mexican Volcanoes- Popo,
Ixta, Orizaba- 1985-87-89 |
|
Equador - Chimborazo and Cotapaxi-
1987 |
|
Switzerland - Zermatt area-1992 |
|
McKinley - 1985, 1994 |
|
Fitzroy- 1995/96 |
|
Grand Traverse - Grand Teton National
Park 2001 |
| |
| Outdoor
Industry Professional Experience - Retail |
| I began as a retail sales associate
in Bridger Mtn Sports in Bozeman Montana in 1977. Within a year
I was the hardgoods buyer for the store. I subsequently become
a partner in the store in 1979. An opportunity to buy another
specialty shop in Bozeman arose in 1980 and the partners from
Bridger Mtn. Sports bought the Mountain Air, which we ran up
until 1984 when we sold it to another competitor in town called
Northern Lights. Bridger Mtn. Sports was closed in 1982 to focus
more on the Mountain Air location. |
| |
| Outdoor
Industry Professional Experience - Wholesale |
| I started as an associate rep with
Wilderness Experience and Kastinger in the fall of 1983 after
returning from Everest. Then, I became an independent rep in
1984 covering Montana, Idaho and Wyoming for Wilderness Experience
and Kastinger. I represented Helly-Hansen, Onesport, and Edelweiss
ropes from 1986-1988. Starting in 1989, I went to work as the
Black Diamond rep for the NW and NE, which I did until 1991.
In April 1991, I became the Northern Rockies rep for Patagonia,
which I did exclusively until April 1998. I left Patagonia to
be able to devote myself more to climbing. I started a new role
in the industry in November 1998, as a technical advisor for
Tecnica Outdoor Footwear, which I did from Nov. 1998 until May
2001. I am presently the new Director of Technical Product Development
and Marketing for Vasque Footwear as of May 15, 2001. |
| |
| Service
Organizations |
|
Member of the American Alpine Club
since 1977 |
|
AAC Board of Directors for two terms
- from 1988 to 1994. |
|
Chairman of the Grand Teton Climbers
Ranch Committee from 1988-1993. |
|
Currently I serve on the Underhill
Award Committee for the AAC. I also served on the Mugs Stump
Award committee from 1993-1998. |
|
Presently a board member of the Malden
Mills Polartec Challenge Board. |
|
Board of Directors of the Exum Mountain
Guides, the country's oldest and most prestigious guide service. |
| |
| Current
Slide Show Thumbnail |
| Jack has been putting
together a new snow that he debuted this past January for the
inaugural Alpinist event in Jackson, Wyoming. He has only given
it once since then, this last weekend in Bishop CA at an event
called the Eastern Sierra Mountain Fest. More details about
the show will be posted later. Jack will present his slide show
on Saturday evening February 21. Be sure to attend and hear
one of the foremast American alpinists during the past thirty
years. |
